Based on childhood recollections
of working class family life in north London in Edwardian times.
Victorian and Edwardian houses are still giving good service today, but few
have their original windows. Most have been fitted with replacement UPVC windows
designed to look like the originals.
My mother's written recollections of life in her
childhood in the early 1900s mention sash windows. So I wanted to learn more
about what they were and what it was like to live with them.
What sash windows are

Detail from an early 1900s photo showing an original
sash window. It is slightly open with its lower section slid up inside
its upper one. In Victorian and Edwardian times the frames were made
of wood.
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Modern photo of a Victorian sash window. The flaking
paintwork illustrates how the wooden frames need to be painted regularly
to stay in good condition.
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Modern photo of a replacement window. There are several
styles which preserve the two-section appearance of Victorian and Edwardian
sash windows. This one opens by tilting rather than sliding. When closed
the cross bar appears thicker than in the Victorian or Edwardian counterparts.
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A 'sash window' is a window in two sections which opens by sliding one or
both of the sections up or down over the other. Little effort is required because
of an ingenious system of pulleys and counterbalancing weights which keep the
window open or closed in any position. Each section is known as a 'sash'. The
outer one is the top one.
I understand that sash windows were in use as early as the 17th century,
and they were commonplace before the onset of the commercial use of plastics
in the middle of the 20th century. In their heyday sash windows always had wooden
frames.
How sash windows work

The principle of how sash windows open and close
easily and stay in position with a system of pulleys and counterbalancing
weights. Schematic and not to scale.
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The 'horns' on either side of the upper sash window.
They prevent the sections from sliding down so far behind the lower
sash that it can't be reached. You have to look carefully to see them
in the above 'original' photographs. (There were similar horns inside
on the lower sash section - see the photo below.)
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Each window section (ie the upper and the lower sash) is hung on cords which
pass over pulleys and connect to weights which are concealed inside the window
frame. The weights counterbalance the weight of the sash so that it can be raised
and lowered with little or no effort and then stays in whatever position it
is left in.
There are projections called 'horns' on either side of the upper sash window.
They prevent it from sliding down so far behind the lower sash that it can't
be reached.
Living with original sash windows

Sash windows in the better-off houses and public buildings
tended to have chains instead of cords. This photo taken from inside, shows
not only a chain but also the sash window locking mechanism and the internal
horns on the top of the lower window section.
As the frames of the Victorian and Edwardian sash windows were made of wood,
they expanded in damp weather unless they were painted regularly. Painting was
quite a palaver because some part of the window and its the wall frame which
held it was always inaccessible, and care needed to be taken when painting close
to the edges near the channels. In practice some paint invariably spilled into
the channels, and layers of set paint built up over time. Consequently, the
windows tended to stick, and as often as not they simply would not open. I never
lived with them, but I do remember as a child visiting houses which had them
and being told, "That window doesn't open".
It was also near impossible to get a neat painted edge on the glass. The
panes of glass were fixed into their wooden frames with putty, a pliable waterproof
material based on linseed oil. It set hard on exposure to the air as the linseed
oil evaporated and seeped into the wood. As it set, it contracted and small
cracks developed which became deeper over time. Eventually pieces broke off.
Painting over the putty while painting the wooden window frame prolonged its
life, but in time the edge that met the glass became bumpy and jagged.

Lower corner of an original sash window showing how
the putty fixing the glass into the wooden frame has shrunk and
cracked, so letting in rain and preventing a neat painted line.
While preparing this page, I spoke to people who remembered living as children
with Victorian and Edwardian sash windows. By then of course the windows were
already many years old. So perhaps it is not surprising that they were regarded
as ill-fitting, draughty, and rattling in the wind.
There is a page on my mother's recollections of her mother
cleaning sash windows in the early 1900s.
Replacing broken sash window cords
Sash cord breakages were uncommon, but had to be treated with care, because
once one cord had gone all the weight of the window was taken by the remaining
cord, which skewed the window sideways and jammed it. The remaining cord could
then also break under the extra strain, bringing the whole window crashing down.
This is something my mother is on record as remembering. My husband too has
a recollection of it: His landlord was opening a sash window when both cords
broke. The lower sash which had been raised came crashing down trapping his
fingers. The window was very heavy without its counterbalancing weights and
someone had to fetch a poker to lever it up so that he could get his fingers
out. His fingers were painful for some time afterwards, but fortunately were
not broken.

Removing the beading from the edge of the frame. Photo courtesy of
Sash Repairs.

Swinging the sash window out on its remaining cord. Photo courtesy of
Sash Repairs.
Richard Cole tells me that mending broken sash cords was a performance. A
beading, which was invariably stuck in place with paint, had to be prised off
from the edge of the frame, so that the window could be swung out on its one
remaining cord. Then the edge of the frame could be removed, revealing the channel
which held the counterweight. The weight had to be attached to a new cord which
had to be threaded through the pulley at the top of the frame, and the other
end had to be re-attached to the window, making sure that the cord was the correct
length: long enough that the window could be fully lowered, but not so long
that the counterweight lay on the bottom of its box before the window was fully
raised. Then the edge of the frame had to be replaced; the window had to put
back into position, and so did the beading. Nail holes needed to be refilled,
and some paint touching up was invariably also needed.
This website Join me in the 1900s is also known as
Join me in the 1900's and is ©
Pat Cryer.