Old methods for prolonging the life of food
In the past, perishable food was kept in the food safe because there were no fridges. Although this normally worked well, it did not always, either because the weather was particularly hot and humid or the personal hygiene was not what it should have been. Money was tight, ice would never have been bought by ordinary people and food was hardly ever thrown away. This page describes ways that households used use to prolong the edible life of short-life food and food on the point of going bad. Includes a recipe for 'bread and butter pudding'.
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Extracted from the memoirs of the webmaster's mother (1906-2002) and edited by the webmaster with further research and firsthand contributions from others
The butter cooler and milk cooler
The butter cooler or milk cooler was an essential item for every kitchen. It worked on the principle that evaporation causes cooling. The butter dish or milk jug was placed in the cooler dish which was kept wet. This was achieved firstly because the cooler dish was porous, usually terracotta (also known as earthenware or fired clay) and unglazed, so that it sucked in water, secondly because it was placed in a dish of water and thirdly because it was covered with a cloth that hung down into the dish of water, keeping both itself and the cooler wet. The cloth was usually crocheted to make it attractive as well as heavy, and beads were sewn round the edge to weight it down into the water.
Thus, whatever was inside the cooler was kept cooler than the outside room temperature.
Home-made butter cooler, crocheted from thick porous cotton thread, made wet and weighed down with beads. (It was easier to crochet a perfect round than to knit one.) The dish of water is not shown. Photographed in the Black Country Museum.
Flannel or muslin was sometimes used instead of the crochet cover. Another variation was a tall porous lid. Being tall it enabled the cooler to contain more food.
Commercial butter cooler and lid made of porous fired clay. The cooler dish was stood in the dish of water (not shown), so that it sucked up water, becoming damp and hence cool. The glass dish inside could be removed for the table.
However - and it was a big however, although these arrangements normally worked well, they did not when the weather was humid, like in a heat wave before a storm. Then the water wouldn't evaporate, so the butter or milk weren't cooled and they went off.
Then my mother resorted to other another measure for milk:
Scalding milk to stop it souring
In very hot and humid weather, when the milk cooler didn't work, my mother 'scalded' the milk to make it last longer. This involved heating it in a saucepan to near boiling point and letting it cool. Doing this wasn't ideal, though, because it took the substance out of the milk and made a skin form on top. I very much liked the skin but most people didn't. Also if the saucepan was not quite clean or if the heat was too fierce, the milk took on an unpleasant burnt taste.
Fortunately the dairy might make several deliveries each day in summer, but even so, I would sometimes be sent along to the dairy with a jug to buy more milk because what we had had gone sour.
Making scones with sour milk
It was common to hear women say that their milk had gone off so they must make scones. It was almost as scones were generally regarded as tasting better made with sour milk. I don't know how true this was, but I always liked our scones anyway.
Keeping meat edible with vinegar
Meat went off very quickly in hot, humid weather. Many a time I saw my mother wipe the Sunday joint over with a vinegar rag before cooking it because it was beginning to smell.
Meat, beginning to go rotten, being wiped over with vinegar before cooking
Using up stale bread
Stale bread was delicious in bread and butter pudding, although if it was really hard, it had to be broken into lumps before cooking rather than slices. It was quite usual, incidentally, for people to eat heavy puddings for dessert, known at the time as 'afters'.
'Bread pudding' or 'bread and butter pudding'?
from the webmaster
My mother often spoke of 'bread pudding' but it was clear from what she said that she was usually using it as a shorthand for 'bread and butter pudding'.
As I was looking for a quick and easy gluten-free pudding, and as gluten-free bread is readily available, I decided to give 'bread and butter pudding' a try.
I searched out an old recipe book of my mother's, Good Housekeeping, 1948. Its date was shortly after the end of WW2 and was clearlyy based on older ways of doing things. There was no entry for 'bread pudding', only for 'bread and butter pudding'. It seems that they were regarded as one and the same at the time, particularly as that there were any number of variations. Here is the Good Housekeeping recipe: modified with what I remember my mother talking about and my own trials:
Ingredients
2-3 slices of
dry bread (eg left out covered over night)
knobs of butter (or ready-buttered bread slices)
1-2 ounzes of currents or sultanas (I used sultanas because they are seedless),
½ ounze of sugar (I guessed this amount)
½ pint of milk
1 egg
nutmeg (I missed this out)
Method
Lay the
buttered bread in a buttered pie dish, sprinkling each layer with dried fruit
and suger but omiting the fruit in the top layer. Beat the egg. Heat the milk
and pour it over the beaten egg and then over the bread. Stand for 30 minutes to
let the liquid swell the bread. Then press down with the back of a spoon to make
sure that the bread is fully soaked. Bake in a moderate oven 350° Fahrenheit (170°
Centigrade) for about an hour until set and lightly brown on top.
I was rather slap dash with my quantities but it didn't seem to matter and I used an enamel pie dish because it was what I happened to have of a suitable size. I prefer these dishes to the alternatives on the market becaus they transmit heat more quickly and wash easily after soaking.
The result
My trial worked first time, so the recipe is clearly tolerant of the ad hoc variations, which it would have had in my mother's early 1900s childhood. It was also pleasant to eat although I would recommend cutting back the sugar as it was rather too sweet for me.
The bread pudding recipes that I have seen on the internet don't include egg and were probably most popular during the shortages of WW2 and the years of shortages afterwards.
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